South Fork

It is a short trip from Pagosa Springs to South Fork going over Wolf Creek Pass.  South Fork is a small community with no traffic lights, McDonald's or Taco Bell.  It does have a gas station, a liquor store and a very nice general store.  When I write 'general' I mean it!  It has all the basic needs of hikers, bikers, fishermen, campers, RVers, and cooks.

Nice place to stay but too close to the highway for me.

South Fork is on the southern end of Highway 149.  We had been told that this very scenic highway was not recommended for RVs.  By parking Mellie in South Fork we were within driving distance of Creede and Lake City.

Creede sits just below a deep canyon that at one time had numerous mining camps.  Today it is the only incorporated city in Mineral County, CO.  In 2010 the census listed its population at 201.  It is charming and colorful. There are some artist galleries and an active theater company.

On the corner of Wall and Main Streets . . .

Creede is like many old mining towns that are continually re-inventing themselves as tourist and artist destinations.

Can you spot Tom?

Slim pickings for new and interesting flowers in Creede.

Walking around Creede, peeking into windows (most stores were closed when we arrived), and watching people is fun but not nearly enough adventure for us.  We decided to try the Bachelor's Loop, a self-guided 17 mile dirt road that would stop at 8 different historical mining sites.  We started up the road which ran parallel to Willow Creek.  It seems like all creeks in this area of Colorado are moving with unusual force and lots of water from spring snow melting.  All was going well until Ms Prissy Prius started sliding backwards and not holding any traction to the road!!  It occurred to me that my car and its occupants could slide all the way backwards and down into the creek!  Tom hopped out to guide me driving backwards, very, very slowly . . . . excruciatingly slowly to a lower part of the road.  Just as we got to a wider part of the road a huge black powerful pickup zipped right past us and up the hill.  Relieved, we found our way back into town.  It was getting towards evening by then so we returned to South Fork.

The beginning of Bachelor's Loop.  Looks pretty tame at this point!

We saw numerous retaining walls built.  Our guess is that these steep walls just keep 'coming down' in this narrow canyon.  They did not look that secure to me!

These were supports for train tracks at one time.

Amazing wood structures!  I was hoping for an interpretive sign in the area but never found one. 

More retaining walls.  It seemed to me that the wall was built progressively higher to protect the wood structure below it.

Just around the corner the road goes steeply upward!  It was up that part of the road that we backed down.

The next morning we decided to drive to Lake City.  Highway 149 goes right through Creede, up over Spring Creek Pass and then over Slumgullion Pass.  My daughter informed me that the Slumgullion Pass has nothing to do with Slumgullion Stew.  We agreed this road is not for Mellie.  Until you get close to Slumgullion Pass the road is not too bad and we spotted lots of RV parks along the way.  This country is just gorgeous, breathtaking, expansive and very tough to capture the grandeur.  One surprise was North Clear Creek Falls.  Wow!

Along the road.

Numerous properties along the road are for sale.  How about a 10 cabin fixer upper?

A picture is worth a thousand words.

This is North Clear Creek Falls.  Would you like it slow?

Or would you like it fast?

Or, maybe just the top?

Or from further downstream as a black and white?

Or with a fisheye's view?

From the car.

From the car.

From the car.

As you enter Lake City you drive right by the Lake Fork of the Gunnison River.

We drove through Lake City and decided it would be on a short list of places to visit from our Gunnison camp.  We dined at the Altitude Restaurant (very, very nice) and returned quickly to South Fork.  The next day we took off about midday for Natural Arch.  That was another adventure.  We started off missing an obvious turn and getting lost before doubling back.  Then we opted for longer route thinking the county road might be smoother.  Wrong!  We stopped along the way because no matter which way we went the scenery was just spectacular at every turn.  I rode the high side of deep ruts in the road, constantly checked to make sure we still had cell phone contact and kept wondering where the signs were for this well known landmark.  We were rewarded when we got to the site.

We were trying to find the right county road and came across an area that I think was just outside Del Norte.  Every house in the community was different.  Several of them had this type of variegated roof.

Where are we?  Hmmm 112 or CR 38 or hmmmmm . . . pretty mountains!

We see these ranch entrances all over the place.  They are massive.  I think this ranch is at the top of the food chain!

A two image pano.

There was a trail, of sorts, that looked like it led to the top.  What a great view might be had from up there.  This was taken about half way up.

Not a bad view from very near the top.  The rocks were getting to be too much for this climber.

I wisely decided to head back down.  Where is Ann when I need her help in getting up the last 10 feet?  I got down by sliding on my fanny!

After shooting all we wanted at Natural Arch we headed back to South Fork.  The vistas were awesome.  The rutted road seemed to matter less and less.

Since 1895!!

A flower for Kati.  Hope she is healing quickly so she can get back to shooting her camera.  I miss her photos and know the rest of you do as well.

That is all of South Fork.  Tonight we are in Del Norte.  Even smaller than South Fork but we had an awesome pizza and salad at the Three Barrel Brewery.  If you drive through here you should definitely stop and eat there.  Thanks for joining us.

The Trogon Trek

For many birders, the Elegant Trogon is on their 'life list'.  If a birder is very lucky they actually see one.  Getting a decent photograph of this bird is a plus.  The Elegant Trogon migrates North from Central America in the spring to nest and breed.  It is estimated that as few  as 50 pairs make it as far north as the Chiricahua  Mountains  in southern Arizona.  A couple of pairs are reported to migrate to South Fork, along Cave Creek, near a very small community named Portal.  They fly south to Central America in September.    

A male Elegant Trogon

Elaine, her sister Rosalind,  and Susan spent four days in Portal to photograph the many birds that is drawn to the area.  But, their real goal was to photograph the Elegant Trogon.   The three ladies prepped for months, planning everything from menus, camera gear, even learning the Grand Trogan's mating call.  On the day I hiked with them we were told that two pair had been spotted on the South Fork Trail, specifically beyond the picnic area.  It would take a 4 mile plus roundtrip hike  to get to the area where the pairs had been spotted.  Of course, we all took photos along the way.

A male Hairy Woodpecker.

This is a Yellow Warbler.

This is a Pine Siskin.

This is a Yellow-Rumped Warbler.

A Great Horned Owl.

A male Acorn Woodpecker.  Wowza!  This tree is a favorite one of woodpeckers.

This is an American Robin.

There is research going on in the Portal area.  Research birds are banded for identification and tracking purposes.  I would say this Mexican Jay is a popular research project!

Another American Robin.

This is an Hepatic Tanager.

This is an Acorn Woodpecker.

Another Hepatic Tanager.

This is the Arizona Woodpecker.  It could be a pair.

A Yellow-Eye Junco. 

This is a Western Tanager.

A Western Kingbird.

The top bird is a Ladderback Woodpecker and the lower one is a Crissal Thrasher.

A male Arizona Woodpecker.

This is a Lazuli Bunting.

A Hooded Oriole.

This is a Cassin's Finch.

A male Arizona Woodpecker.

This is a Green-tailed Towhee.

This is a Spotted Towhee.

Parking area for the South Fork trailhead.

This board shows example of the devastation done by the flood a couple of years ago.  I have to walk South Fork to truly appreciate how powerful a flood coming down a stream bed can be.

The early part of South Fork Trail.  It got much more difficult as we continued to walk back.

Cave Creek

Bird watching requires a fair amount of 'looking up'.  The rock formations along the trail meant my looking up was doing double duty.

The area suffered a forest fire several years ago, followed by a devastating flood.  South Fork still shows evidence of the destruction.  The dirt road going to the picnic area was washed out, huge trees ripped up, boulders changing addresses.  The road may not be rebuilt.

Water in Cave Creek and shade in abundance, makes this area a natural riparian.

Not everything that flies along the South Fork Trail is a bird.

This made me laugh.  These guys or gals are getting in a little spring warm up on the rocks.

This area is rather wild looking and is 2 miles from the trailhead.

As we hiked further and further the excitement began to build.  We reached the picnic area and several people reported that they had seen Elegant Trogons just a bit further.  How far is just a bit further after a 2 mile hike?  Just enough to keep us going!  I was not in the forward scouting group so I missed the look on Elaine's face as she spotted her first Trogon.  But it was not long before we spotted her coming quickly back on the trail to get us, letting us know it was just ahead of us.  I noticed that we all became more quiet, almost whispering to each other, as we wanted to locate the male's characteristic  mating song (some have described it as a dog's bark, others as a seal calling).  The female Trogon in not as colorful as the male, but is still a gorgeous bird.

Male Elegant Trogon

Female Elegant Trogon

Male Elegant Trogon

Female Elegant Trogon

Male Elegant Trogon

Female Elegant Trogon

Female Elegant Trogon

Male Trogon

Another great experience was visiting the various 'feeding stations' that are maintained  by people living in the area.  They keep feeders going, sometimes replenishing food three or more times a day!  People are invited to stop by, grab a seat and just watch the many varieties of birds that show up.  Feeder hosts also know their birds, can assist with identification and they keep in touch with each other so they can let you know what is going on in the area.  Small donations help in defraying the cost of the food they put out.

The Arizona Woodpecker.

A Black-headed Grosbeak.

A Red-naped Sapsucker.

The hummer on the left is a Magnificent Hummingbird.  The one on the right is unidentified.

This is a Mexican Jay.

This is a female Scott's Oriole.

A female Northern Cardinal.

This is a male Scott's Oriole.

This is a Lazuli Bunting with a House Finch.

These are Lark Buntings.  There five males and one female.  They look like a street gang planning to rob the feeders!!!

This is a male Black-headed Grosbeak.

This is a female Scott's Oriole.

These are male and female Lesser Goldfinch.

This is a Gilded Flicker.  

Another Mexican Jay showing off among the pretty flowers.

A Magnificent Hummingbird.

A Red-napped Sapsucker.

Meet Bo.  He belongs to the owner of the George Walker House, the bed and breakfast where we stayed.  He gave up chasing birds a long time ago!

The little community of Portal has a general store and a Post Office.  Catering to birders is the main business in town.  

This is a male Northern Cardinal.

Two Acorn Woodpeckers.

This is a Say's Phoebe.  There are birds everywhere!  Having your camera ready is a must.

This is a Lark Bunting.  

Another Lark Bunting with a more comfortable perch.

This is Chipping Sparrow.

I love this image.  It is Cactus Wren.

Just arriving, or leaving, the Chiricahua Mountains is a photographic treat.  

What fun!  Birders are great photography buddies.  They get excited over bird sounds, even more excited when they spot one they are looking for.  They understand patience.  They accept that they are not in control.  Birds show up and take off as they wish.  Most of all, they have a passion for birds that motivates them to hike, wait, listen and in the end they may have the shot of the beautiful bird as it perched behind branches, leaves, twigs and in blown out highlights.  As they look at the image they say, "What a beautiful bird!"  I leave you with my best bird shot.

Birders call this a leaf bird.  It is often spotted by beginning birders who mistake its shape and or color for the real deal.  I have several of these excellent photos of the leaf bird.  I also have quite a few 'birds that were just there', 'bird gone' and blurred images that everyone agrees is better than 50% chance of being in the bird family.